Friday, December 3, 2010
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Sunday, June 13, 2010
Service Berries and early Lavender...mystery white mulberries, too.
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Sourdough bread, Transition Oakland County, and Swales!
From Abundant Succession |
From Abundant Succession |
From Abundant Succession |
From Abundant Succession |
From Abundant Succession |
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Making Kombucha Tea: Part Two
Making Kombucha Tea: Part One
Cleanliness is key in this process, so wash your hands and clean all of your equipment and utensils before you begin.
Start by bringing the water to the boil. I'm making a BIG batch, so I've quadrupled everything. Let the water boil for a few minutes, which will kill any pathogens and evaporate any volatiles (like chlorine, if you're using tap water).
Turn off the water and let it calm down. Once it is still, add the tea bags. I prefer to use green tea, for it's EGCGs and flavor. You can use black or oolong, fermented black tea. Unfermented green tea is especially nutritious and has anti-carcinogenic properties. The tea supports the growth of the microorganisms and cellular construction of the culture. Organic, high-quality teas are best. Skip the herbal and fruit teas - for a reason that nobody seems to know, they just don't work.
Next, measure out the sugar: 3/4 cup. Set aside and let the tea brew for 15 minutes, then remove the bags.
The sugar provides nutrients to the culture and helps to activate the microorganisms. The bacteria metabolize the sugar into acetic acid and carbon dioxide.
A healthy culture (below) is beige/brown (black tea) or pale cream (green tea). A 3 inch piece is enough if it is thick and tough. Avoid stringy, thin cultures. Pictured is my "mother" culture - it's about 14 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch thick. The culture will grow to the shape of your container if it is fed well and kept happy. Within a week or two, you will notice that it will produce "offspring" from its underside ... more cultures!
Monday, February 22, 2010
Good Weekend
First, UM Dearborn held a Summit on Urban Farming on Friday. The urban farming and local food movements have been growing rapidly here in Michigan. More and more people are looking to revive their communities, economies, health and spirits through organic and local food production and the monumental benefits that come with it. Small farms, businesses, community gardens and greenhouses have been popping up everywhere in response to these movements, shining hope onto Michigan's economy.
The summit was also a response to these rapidly growing movements, and here the educational community is catching on, trying to learn how to help. There were so many great people, so many great conversations going on there, it's going to be great to see how this event unfolds in the urban farming community.
The panel discussion had leaders from the booming Detroit scene address many issues surrounding urban farming and its future in Detroit and Michigan. Panelists included: Ashley Atkinson, The Greening of Detroit; Oran Hesterman, Fair Food Network; Susan Schmidt, The Henry Ford; Kami Pothukuchi, SEED Wayne; Malik Yakini, Detroit Black Community Food Security.
Robert Kenner, the filmmaker behind the hit Food Inc., was the keynote speaker at lunch. He provided many great insights into the film, including much of the behind the scenes conversations and events that were going on during the making of the film. Robert was so impressed by what he saw that day that he is considering coming back and doing another film about Detroit, and hopefully the rest of Michigan!
Lastly, our friend Mikey Formisano held a Season Extension and Cold-Frame Workshop at the Upland Hills Ecological Awareness Center. Mikey is a recent horticulture graduate from Michigan State University and spent his years there working at the Student Organic Farm. It was a beautiful Saturday afternoon (that helped my greenhouse radishes germinate while I was gone!), with about 20 enthusiastic gardeners and farmers coming out to learn about season extension and its myriad of benefits. The workshop was a lot of fun, and before we know it, we'll all be Four Season Growers here in Michigan!
Sunday, February 14, 2010
My New Room Mates
showing first true leaves
This member of the Asteraceae family blooms from summer to early fall. Yarrow's botanical name is Achillea millefolium where the genus name Achillea is said to be derived from the mythical Greek character, Achilles, who would carry it with him into battle to treat wounded soldiers.
Yarrow is helpful in the garden for fixing poor soil and especially for attracting beneficial insects (hoverfly and parastitic wasps).
Hoverfly
Syrphid flies
Many of them look like bees but cannot sting. The larva of the hoverfly eats aphids, mealbugs, leafhoppers, and scale. The adult form feeds on nectar and pollen so a consistent bloom of flowers will keep them around the garden.
Parasitic Wasps
3 maingroups: Braconids, Chalcids, Ichneumonids
Braconids
Tiny, often brightly colored wasps that lay their eggs on or in cabbageworms, tomato hornworms, and other caterpillars.
Chalcids
Tiny wasps,(1/32 in.) whose hosts are mealybugs, aphids, and larvae of moths, beetles and butterflies. They can be golden or black in color.
Ichneumonids
The wasp that is characterized by its long ovipositor which deposits eggs into moth and butterfly larvae.
For a list of host plants for beneficial insects (and other indispensable gardening information) check out Gaia's Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture.
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
Seeds, part deux!
Monday, February 8, 2010
Seeds
We've been feverishly looking through dozens of seed and plant catalogs for the past month looking for all those gems, deals and hard finds. It is both the most exciting and the most painstaking process one can go through in the late winter. Our imaginations have been running wild with all the possibilities, until we are brought back down to earth and have to make those hard decisions on what must be ordered.
Above are some of the catalogs that we've been fingering through. Here is a rundown on some of my favorites.
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds: Loaded with the most beautiful pictures, this catalog is for the gardener looking for those rare, hard to find varieties of a lost time. Great prices and the best variety of seeds offered.
High Mowing Organic Seeds: 100% certified organic seeds for the home and market grower. Great selection of the latest varieties, great growing information, excellent seed quality and competitive prices.
Johnny's Selected Seeds: The classic "go to seed company" of many organic growers around the country. Johnny's offers seeds of great quality of the latest varieties, organic seeds, tools and equipment and top tier plant breeding.
Turtletree: An excellent biodynamic seed catalog. Offers 100% certified biodynamic seeds of top quality. A little pricey, but those seeds sure do have good energy!
Oikos Tree Crops: This nursery is hands down my favorite. The catelog is beautiful and informative, the prices are great and the nursery is located outside Kalamazoo, MI. The catalog is geared towards forest gardening, offering diverse trees, tubers, shrubs, flowers, and groundcovers with a native and edible focus.
When looking through the catalogs, it is helpful to start a spreadsheet by hand or on the computer to organize the seed information. You can compare seed counts, prices, sizes, etc. We organize our spreadsheets by: Crop, Variety, Species, Genus, Family, Packet Size, Seed Count, Price, Days to Maturity, Source and Product Number. All of these are not necessary, but learning the Latin names of all those vegetables and plants will be convenient when planning for crop rotations, interplanting and bio-intensive growing. Use the seed company's information to calculate how much seed to order. A scaled garden map is useful when doing your calculations.
The other day, it felt like Christmas. We ordered quite a bit of our seeds for the season, and the mailman dropped off a box of goodies. The Johnny's box is seen above. Order your seeds fast! Seed companies always seem to have the best seeds on back order or sold out now a days.
Also, take inventory of all of your seeds. This includes seeds from last year, saved seeds, and traded seeds. Some of my saved seeds are above. Seed saving is one of the most important practices of sustainable agriculture, and I'm learning that it's also an art. Flower seeds are the easiest seeds to save, and I have quite a bit of tomato and bean seed. Next year, no more plastic bags! Those nasty, convenient little things.
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Black Raspberry (Rubus Occidentalis) Pruning
Black raspberries! These tasty, prolific and pesky berries have been growing through my neighbor's (these are the same neighbors with the quince tree) fence for years, and in the past year I persuaded my mother to stop cutting them back. During the early summer when that decision was made, their growth was slow. It wasn't until I turned my back for a minute (I swear, a whole minute), the were out of control! There are many a story about black raspberries wreaking havoc on people's yards, and I was determined to not let that happen to mine.
(Blackberries before the pruning) | ||||
It may not look like much, but the canes were starting to reach outward and spread low as opposed to a more structured and vertical growth that I desired. So, I put on my leather gloves, pruners, and got in there. I'm not entirely sure if what I did was 'by the book', but it worked well for me.
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Tuesday, December 1, 2009
December Sheet Mulching
Here is a step-by-step process for quick sheet mulching. The process is forgiving, so if everything is not perfect, don't worry.
Step 1
Moisten and loosen soil in the future garden beds. I use a digging fork and loosen as deep as possible. Many soils are compacted, and could use the extra help before the worms come in to devour the mulch. This is a bare root beach plum (Prunus maritima) I planted in October. Tree roots typically spread 1 1/2 times the crown diameter or more, so on this future 6 foot tree I will sheet mulch to at least the diameter of the mature crown.
Step 2
Spread soil amendments on the sod around the future garden beds. Knowing your soil is very important in this step, so contact your local garden store or garden association to get a soil test if you haven't already gotten one.
Step 3
Place sheets of cardboard or several layers of newspaper on top of the sod, and moisten it. This layer will act as a light barrier to smother out grass and weeds. Eventually the sod will rot and become humus, feeding the plants. This is a 1 year old gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa) cutting I planted in October.
Step 4
Add organic matter, about 6-12 inches, and spread evenly. I like to spread down some composted manure first, and then bulk organic matter. Fall is a great time to acquire organic matter, and my strategy is to mow the grass and fallen leaves together to make a finer textured C/N mix. The ideal C:N ratio is around 25:1. Spoiled hay is also a great bulk organic matter source.
Step 5
Top the pile off with evenly spread finished compost or topsoil, about 1-2 inches and add mulch. Remember to always mulch, so cover the pile with leaves, straw, woodchips, etc.
Fall is a great time to sheet mulch and mulch in general. Trees' and other woody plants' roots are very active in the fall when the plants go dormant. Mulching before winter allows the roots more time to grow and build up reserves for the long winter. This is especially important in newly planted plants whose roots are not yet well established. Winter soil erosion is also common, so mulching will ensure that all your hard work stays in place.